All posts filed under: Travel

Paris Moment

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Lunch at La Chope des Puces On a recent trip to Paris we avoided tourist spots as much as possible, save for a night tour on the Seine. Sunday we went to the Marche aux Puces, the flea market. We took the Metro to Port de Clignancourt. We walked through cramped aisles, looking at antiques, paintings, furniture, and some cool metal letters I regret not buying. We squeezed past lots of people. We grew weary. Time for lunch!  We asked a sleepy vendor what direction we’d find restaurants, and he directed us “a droit.” So we walked down the Rue de Rosier, looking at cafes and bistros, at menus, at the food people were eating.  (“Does the food smile at you?” was our question to ourselves.)  We kept walking. Then we heard live jazz. We’d stumbled upon La Chope des Puces. A temple to Django Reinhart, with a jazz school in the back, La Chope is one of the best places to hear jazz in Paris. We sat at a table right next to the musicians, and ordered from the blackboard. Around …

Kansas City Cool

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What to Do in Kansas City People from the east coast seem surprised when I say that Kansas City is a cool city. But it’s true. Kansas City is happening. It’s artsy, with good music, theatre and food. Local and sustainable food is serious here. The Crossroads Arts Section is the center of a creative revitalization. We spent 24 hours in Kansas City recently. Here are our recommendations. Stay at the Jefferson House Bed & Breakfast In the Westside neighborhood on a bluff overlooking downtown, within walking distance or a short car ride to the Crossroads Arts section, Jefferson House is a grand old brick house lovingly restored by Peter and Theresa, a transplanted English couple. The Mulkey Suite is furnished with substantial antique furniture, decorated with engravings and quirky touches. Breakfast, made by Theresa and served on her homemade pottery, was scotch eggs, salad, fruit and awesome Fervere Artisan Bread, baked a block away. Fervere makes organic, multi-grained breads. We loved the heirloom polenta bread made from locally grown heirloom corn. Eat in the Westside neighborhood Our flight from New York arrived around lunch time on a quiet …

The Best Lobster Roll

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What Makes a Great Lobster Roll I’ve eaten lobster rolls on Cape Cod, along the Connecticut Coast and the rocky shores of Maine. Here’s a few things I’ve learned: If you want a top quality lobster roll, $19.99 is the starting price. The best lobster rolls are made to order. It’s not a question of mayo or butter, but the right amount of both. The roll should be toasted. A microwave should not be involved. Eating outdoors or in a lobster shack with a view of water is necessary — but atmosphere cannot save a mediocre roll. That list sums up the sad and sodden lobster rolls I’ve eaten — prepared ahead of time and sold in a refrigerator case in one over-lauded spot on Martha’s Vineyard. The Best Lobster Roll Clam Shack, Kennebunkport Served on a butter-griddled soft, round bun spread with mayonnaise, and piled with nuggets of knuckle, tail and claw, drizzled with butter, this lobster roll has the perfect balance and texture, with the freshness of  pink and white lobster starring. A …

Trying to Stay Hungry in Portland, Maine.

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Trying to Stay Hungry in Portland Maine The cobblestone streets of Old Port, the vibrant waterfront of Portland, Maine are busy  with people, shops and restaurants. Restaurants with national reputations for being on the forefront of the local and sustainable food movement. We had a day and a half there, vacationing with friends. We looked for casual places with good food — and we found them. The only challenge was trying to stay hungry. The creative energy in Portland provokes associations to Brooklyn, N.Y., which is annoying to people living in Portland. Sure, some people have moved from Brooklyn to Portland. But Portland has a rugged energy and intimacy all its own. Duck Fat Duck Fat serves irresistible fries. Belgian-style, hand-cut Maine potatoes fried in duck fat and served in a cone with a choice of dipping sauces. But why order the fries alone? Go for the poutine. It’s lathed with duck gravy and dabbed with soft, melting cheese curd. This hip little joint serves sandwiches, fries and milkshakes. Everyone seemed really happy to be here. We started lunch with Brussels sprouts fried in duck fat and tossed …