The location is prime. Right on the water in Stamford, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a harbor filled with pleasure boats. Comfortable, contemporary, and sophisticated, Prime serves an updated American surf and turf menu. Start with sushi, and end with steak. That’s what we did.

Prime, which opened 2 years ago, wasn’t on my radar, until I was invited to dinner there by Carolyn Izzo of CIIS.  It’s one of the 8 restaurants in the Bohlsen Restaurant Group, which runs another Prime across Long Island Sound in Huntington, N.Y.

From back, Green Lotus, Stamford Landing Roll, and Miso Brûlée roll at Prime American Kitchen and Bar in Stamford.

The intriguing avocado-wrapped Green Lotus revealed an interior of spicy tuna, lump crab, and Asian pear. The Stamford Landing roll wrapped tuna over shrimp tempura and avocado. For those who avoid sushi, a starter of prosciutto and caramelized figs, with almonds and goat cheese, drizzled with balsamic glaze, was sweet and salty.

Prime lived up to its name with this 21-day aged USA Prime porterhouse steak for two.

It had a good char on the outside, and was pink, well-marbled, tender and full of beefy flavor.  It had been cooked on the bone, and was presented in thick slices.  The sauce at the bottom of the pan was rich and winey. Yet we had to order an “enhancement” as the menu rightly calls it. Bernaise sauce. It’s not necessary, but why not? And whipped potatoes and spinach gratin, too.

(I took most of this home, and yes I did eat steak and creamed spinach for breakfast the next morning.  I woke up craving it.)

Prime has a large wine list, and knowledgeable staff to guide you through matching food with California and European wines. They also have a wide selection of after-dinner drinks, single malt scotch, port, and grappa. After a big steak dinner, a small, strong digestivo is in order.

Desserts were homey, traditional American, like cheesecake , s’mores, and, my favorite, key lime pie.

Prime’s Key lime pie bites topped with meringue.

Prime has a lot going for it, waterfront location, great food, professional service. And it also has mooring for boats, and is soon opening a dock-side cabana for the summer. For info on wine dinners and Sunday Jazz Brunch (great idea for when guests are visiting), go to Prime.