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Flinders Lane: Australian Fusion in Stamford

 

Flinders Lane is a culinary destination in downtown Melbourne, Australia, filled with restaurants and cafes offering a range of ethnic and contemporary cuisine.

Summer street is a culinary destination in downtown Stamford, Connecticut. And that’s where you’ll find Flinder’s Lane, a contemporary Australian-fusion restaurant.

Immigrants always improve the food, especially if the culture has been dominated by English settlers. At Flinders Lane in Stamford, there are Asian and Mediterranean influences on the English food, too.  A classic sausage roll in puff pastry is jazzed up with sambal mayo.

Among the small plates, tuna tartar is accented with a plantain chip. Dumplings are filled with chicken and lemongrass.  Italian meatballs are filled with veal and pork, served with tomato sauce and grilled bread.

An Australian native species is represented by barramundi perch (the Aborigines have a legend about the fish), which is steamed in green chile lime sauce, and dressed with mint.

The other native species on the menu is kangaroo. I tried it in a salad, based on Thai Yum. It tastes like beef, with more of a gamey flavor. Flinders Lane also offer a kangaroo burger at brunch, and roasta kanga loin at dinner.

For dessert, Lambington, is the way to go. It’s considered the national cake of Australia, white sponge cake, filled with jam, covered in chocolate and dusted with coconut.

For more information, go to Flinders Lane.

 

 

Prime: American Kitchen and Bar

The location is prime. Right on the water in Stamford, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a harbor filled with pleasure boats. Comfortable, contemporary, and sophisticated, Prime serves an updated American surf and turf menu. Start with sushi, and end with steak. That’s what we did.

Prime, which opened 2 years ago, wasn’t on my radar, until I was invited to dinner there by Carolyn Izzo of CIIS.  It’s one of the 8 restaurants in the Bohlsen Restaurant Group, which runs another Prime across Long Island Sound in Huntington, N.Y.

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From back, Green Lotus, Stamford Landing Roll, and Miso Brûlée roll at Prime American Kitchen and Bar in Stamford.

The intriguing avocado-wrapped Green Lotus revealed an interior of spicy tuna, lump crab, and Asian pear. The Stamford Landing roll wrapped tuna over shrimp tempura and avocado. For those who avoid sushi, a starter of prosciutto and caramelized figs, with almonds and goat cheese, drizzled with balsamic glaze, was sweet and salty.

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Prime lived up to its name with this 21-day aged USA Prime porterhouse steak for two.

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It had a good char on the outside, and was pink, well-marbled, tender and full of beefy flavor.  It had been cooked on the bone, and was presented in thick slices.  The sauce at the bottom of the pan was rich and winey. Yet we had to order an “enhancement” as the menu rightly calls it. Bernaise sauce. It’s not necessary, but why not? And whipped potatoes and spinach gratin, too.

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(I took most of this home, and yes I did eat steak and creamed spinach for breakfast the next morning.  I woke up craving it.)

Prime has a large wine list, and knowledgeable staff to guide you through matching food with California and European wines. They also have a wide selection of after-dinner drinks, single malt scotch, port, and grappa. After a big steak dinner, a small, strong digestivo is in order.

Desserts were homey, traditional American, like cheesecake , s’mores, and, my favorite, key lime pie.

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Prime’s Key lime pie bites topped with meringue.

Prime has a lot going for it, waterfront location, great food, professional service. And it also has mooring for boats, and is soon opening a dock-side cabana for the summer. For info on wine dinners and Sunday Jazz Brunch (great idea for when guests are visiting), go to Prime.

 

Brindavan

I recently discovered an awesome Indian restaurant called Brindavan. It’s about a 25 minutes drive from my house in Fairfield, and the distance is a good thing, because if I lived any closer, I would have been back a dozen times by now. I kept thinking about the aromatic, spice-filled food for days afterward.

Known for having the “biggest lunch buffet,” Brindavan is in a strip mall in Milford, CT, and on a recent weekday lunch, the long room was filled with a mostly Indian crowd. A woman serving herself from the abundant trays, said she and her colleagues worked at a near-by pharmaceutical company.  A waiter who brought warm naan to the table,  told us that “if we had the time,” come back on the weekend, when the buffet expands to 35 dishes.

Brindavan is about the food, not the décor.  Unlike the dingy atmosphere, the food is bright, warm, filled with spices and flavors that made us smile and feel a buzz.  The Manchurian vegetable balls really stood out for, may be because it’s one of the first things we tasted, and we loved how spicy they were.  The idly had that wonderful sour fermented flavor, there were sauces to drizzle over them. Onion fritters, dal, curries, tandoor and more.

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Lucas Local Oyster Bar and Woodfire Cookery

Oyster lovers, head inland. The best oysters to be found in Fairfield County are not on the coast but in Newtown, CT, at Lucas Local Oyster Bar and Woodfire Cookery. The other day I sampled some of the freshest and most expertly opened oysters, pristine, glistening, and briny.

This contemporary American Sea and Land restaurant is housed in an antique house, renovated with rough hewn repurposed boards, and calming gray walls. Lucas is relaxed and fun, a place to enjoy life by eating well. Owner Vince Capelletti is a seasoned restaurateur, and the kitchen is kicking out some excellent dishes. We were recently invited to a tasting by Max Ex, the restaurant marketing firm.

The dish that stayed in my mind afterwards? Shrimp and grits.

IMAG2601Coarse stone-ground grits, lightly grilled red shrimp, sprightly fresh scallions, basil oil, and a poached egg. At brunch it’s like the best adult porridge you could imagine. At dinner, pure comfort food, where you’re saying, “ummm,” after every bite.

Seared Stonington scallops were simply paired with grilled frisée.

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Octopus was finished over the wood fire, and paired with hummus and crunchy chickpea. Nice double use of the chickpea.

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Mussels Isabella is a stand-out. Maine mussles steamed in pesto sage cream, garnished with deep-fried sage leaves.

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Lucas is now open for brunch, and while I would seriously recommend the shrimp and grits, the traditional brunch favorites, are pretty damn good too.

Lobster bene was particularly luscious due to a frothy, lemony Hollandaise, and perfectly poached eggs whose yolks soaked into the airy baguette beneath.

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For kids, waffles are served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, which is the best idea ever, and maple syrup and crisp house-cured bacon.

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Desserts feature local Ferris ice cream.  A bourbon adult sundae–vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, bourbon, and maple foam–was the perfect end to brunch.

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Lucas Local Oyster Bar and Woodfire Cookery

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A Soup to Cure You

At the first hint of a scratchy throat, I make a potent garlic soup, boosted by healthy herbs and spices.  The basis of this soup is my beloved Garlic Soup from Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking.  It’s made with garlic, sage, thyme, fresh parsley, thyme, and water.  I veer off the original recipe to include inflammation- reducing, circulation-enhancing, immune-strengthening herbs and spices.

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Start with a head of garlic, add mushroom, onion, thyme, black peppercorn,  clove, hot pepper, cardamom pods, cumin seeds, bay leaves, galangal, ginger, turmeric, and Sichuan peppercorns.  If there are other healthy spices you love, add them too. The only reason I didn’t include sage and parsley is because I was out.

Add real olive oil.

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Garlic soup can be veggie, made with water. Or you can use chicken stock.  I needed extra fortification, so I used chicken stock .  Add salt accordingly.

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Bring to a boil, then simmer, partially covered for 40 minutes. Strain, and mash the garlic cloves through the strainer.

If you’ve used water, before serving you could enrich the soup with an egg. Use a farm fresh egg to make a quick mayonnaise, or add a poached egg to the soup.

Final garnishes can included a crouton, with or without grated gruyere, a chiffonade of greens, or sprinkling of herbs.

Did it cure me? I believe so. Give it a try.

 

Bests and Favorites: Food of 2017

In no particular order other than jogging the old noggin, here are the dishes, drinks and food experiences I enjoyed the most in Fairfield County, CT, and beyond, in 2017.  Critera for inclusion: eaten in the last year.

Samosas. Royal Guard in Norwalk makes crisp deep-fried samosas filled with spiced potatoes.  But that’s not all. The fish and chips are the best in Fairfield County. And the Pakistani chicken curry with warm, glistening naan makes up for the lack of atmosphere in this little hole in the wall. I reviewed Royal Guard for the Hartford Courant.

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Cochinita at Los Poblanos in Norwalk. I’ve written about Los Poblanos for the Hartford Courant and CT Bites. It’s a big favorite of  my friends, one of whom lived in Mexico. We refer to the restaurant as “Juan’s.” Juan is the chef-owner. He, his wife and children are lovely people.

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I love Mexican food. Could eat it every day. Here are a couple of my favorite dishes at Mexican places in Bridgeport. I wrote about my favorite ethnic restaurants in Bridgeport here.

Carnitas with grilled jalapeno at La Mexicana, Bridgeport

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Carnitas tacos at La Salsa Taqueria, Bridgeport

Green enchiladas at El Paraiso in Bridgeport.

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Pozole:  El Paraiso, Bridgeport

 

Moving on to New American food, the best New England Clam Chowder I had this year was at Shell and Bones in New Haven, sitting outside on the waterfront. It’s a good place to eat before seeing a show at the Long Wharf Theatre.

Mussels at Oak & Almond in Norwalk.

Lunch at the Modern in New York City was the most exquisite meal of the year.

Dessert, The Modern, NYC

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Best Chef’s Tasting Meal, Olea, New Haven

Favorite Fairfield County Restaurants for a Nice Lunch:

Lobster salad at Basso Café Restaurant in Norwalk.  I don’t have a picture because I was enjoying the moment too much to pull out a camera. It’s a beautiful salad of hearts of palm, avocado, and lobster, which I enjoyed over a lively conversation and glass of bubbly.  I love the originality and personal expression of chef-owner Renato’s Mediterranean restaurant.

Fish of the Day, butternut soup,  dessert, atmosphere, service, I love everything about Artisan in Southport. Executive Chef Frederic Kieffer uses local vegetables from my favorite farmer Patti Popp of Sport Hill Farm.

Italian Restaurant in Fairfield County, Cotto, Stamford, CT. I’ve written about this Roman restaurant in downtown many times over the years. This review I wrote for the Hartford Courant has a most embarrassing typo—a b is left out of barbera.  Most recently, I wrote about a wine dinner at Cotto for Greenwich Magazine. In this article the final a is left off barbera. Curse of the barbera. These are details that stab at writer’s being.

I’ve enjoyed every meal I’ve had at Cotto, including one this summer, sitting outside. The manager steered us to these mozzarella stuffed eggplant packets, imported pasta, and luscious roasted lobster.

 

So often, I crave a bowl of soup. A big bowl of steaming broth filled with long noodles. Love Ramen.  Love Mecha in Fairfield and South Norwalk. Must confess I’ve never tried Mecha’s pho. I can’t tear myself away from the ramen.

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Pho: Pho Thom, Bridgeport

Bahn mi slider: Matt Storch’s Nom-Eez in Black Rock.

Garden Rolls: RuThai, Bridgeport

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Foodie Adventure, Eataly, NYC, Italian honey, cheese, and wine pairing tasting with honey sommelier RedBee Marina.

 

Unusual, tedious, but satisfying foodie experience: threshing the wheat grown by Nancy and John Hurley. It took a village of family and friends, and reminded us of how much we take for granted.

 

Bread: Fairfield Bread Company’s all organic Bridgeport Sour. (Yes, I know the owner.) Available at the specialty food store The Pantry in downtown Fairfield and great neighborhood breakfast joint Harbor View Market in Bridgeport.

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Cured meats, Taste of Europe, Norwalk.

Local farm: Sport Hill Farm, Easton

Cutest Vegetable: These little eggplants from the best farmers market Black Rock Farmers Market.

Home Grown Vegetables. Asparagus, potatoes, tomatoes and dandelion greens.

Best Recipe I Developed. Lemon Asparagus Soup. For dLife, a website for people with diabetes, this delicious, easy low-carb soup.

Brunch: Lobster and Eggs at BRYAC. Happy Hour: BRYAC,
Black Rock, and Martel, Fairfield.

Homemade dessert: Peach tarts.

Homemade Cookies

 

For the Drinks column I do for Moffly Media, and adventures in New York City with my pal Modern Distillery Age editor-in-chief Gregg Glaser, I got to sip some special spirits and brews.

I wrote about a Fairfield County brewery road trip for Stamford Magazine. I don’t have a favorite; it’s all fun.  Yet, as one of the judges in the IPA category at the Great International Beer, Cider and Sake Competition, I had the pleasure of sitting with Jeff Browning of Brewport in Bridgeport. He is an encyclopedia of brewing history,  practice, styles, and flavor.

Some of the beers, including Sours, I’ve enjoyed this year are highlighted in this piece.

For a piece on tequila, Tim Scott of Geronimo in Fairfield and New Haven, poured me a taste of Clase Azul Reposado, which had notes of Sherry from the aging barrel. Along with an excellent selection of   Tequila , I’ve enjoyed Geronimo’s Southwestern food.

Grappa. Gra’it.  Yes, it’s strong. Yet, the flavor of the grape is present. We served it after Thanksgiving dinner, in tiny glasses. Refill with care.

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Great Tacos in Bridgeport

La Salsa Taqueria is a newish discovery, a hole in the wall where the carnitas tacos are worth the braving the neighborhood. Right now the building at 1154 State St. is encased in scaffolding. There’s a little bodega next door that sells sodas and lotto tickets, and draws men who hang about on the street in front of it. But inside, La Salsa is friendly, with a smiling owner, workers and patrons. The place is a riot of color, the walls papered in newspaper clippings about the owner’s food truck in Norwalk. Up high near the ceiling, an image of the virgin Mary is framed by empty Pepsi cans.

Physically, La Salsa isn’t comfortable. The door opens often, sending blasts of cold or hot air into the small room. At the counter, behind the glass, you can see the slow cooked pork piled high. One day the owner placed a tray of just cooked chicken thighs and legs in the case. They actually drew our eyes from the carnitas. The chicken was at just-falling-off he bone tenderness.  In the self-service fridge, there are squirt bottles of fresh avocado salsa and habanero salsa.

The tacos come on paper lined trays. The pork is juicy and fatty, and the tortillas are soft and fresh. Shredded cabbage, raw onions, cilantro, avocado, a squirt of fresh lime, and a squeeze from the salsas bottles. Taco heaven. Even better — these amazing tacos cost $1.50 each.

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